Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern

This Dog Sweater Pattern can be modified according to your taste and imagination. The important thing to keep is the construction. I tried different constructions, various raglan versions among them, and my conclusion is that raglan is not very "anatomically correct" for dogs. The increases made only at the chest are best for a good fitting. Also I find it's easy to knit the sleeves the way I demonstrate in the video.
For a small doggy you could also knit a dog carrier.

Finished Size:

I guess in this case one image makes for a thousand words:

Dog Sweater Finished Size


Main color: Sirdar Hayfield Bonus DK shade 904 Orchard – 153 yards (140 m)
Contrast color: DK yarn – 68 yards (62 m)


4 mm - US 6 Chiaogoo 4” interchangeable needles with 8" and 22" cables


Marker (m), tapestry needle


28 sts and 32 rows = 4” (10 cm) in pattern stitch
21 sts and 30 rows = 4” (10 cm) in stockinette stitch


k - knit
p - purl
p2tog - purl 2 together
k2tog - kint 2 together
ssk - slip, slip, knit
MC - main color yarn
CC - contrast color yarn
st(s) - stitch(es)
LH - left hand
RH - right hand
M1R - make 1 right-leaning stitch (see video)
M1L - make 1 left-leaning stitch (see video)
T2F - twist 2 sts to the front
T2B - twist 2 sts to the back

Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern


Knit a sample in the rib of your choice and calculate how many stitches you will need for a loose fit at the neck.
I cast-on 64 stitches + 1 stitch for joining the round.
1. Neck rib:
For the neck rib I knit:
12 rounds (4 cm/1,5"): k2, p2
12 rounds (4 cm/1,5"): p2, k2
You can change the rib height and pattern. Maybe you want to knit the rib in k1, p1 and not folded.

2. Chest increases:
Round 1: k3, M1L, k13, pm, 34 sts in pattern, pm, k13, M1R, k1.
When repeated, round 1 will be knit: k3, M1L, k to next m, sm, 34 sts in pattern, sm, k to 1 st before end of round, M1R, k1.
Round 2: k3, k1 tbl, k to next m, sm, 34 sts in pattern, sm, k to end of round
Repeat rounds 1-2 until the sweater is at the paws level.

Pattern panel (34 sts):
Round 1: p1, [p1, "knot" (insert RH needle between 2nd and 3rd sts on LH needle and pick-up yarn, place the stitch on the LH needle and k1 tbl, sl2 sts, pass the k1 tbl st over the sl2 sts), p1] 8 times, p1
Round 2, 8: [p2, k2] 8 times, p2
Round 3: p1, [T2B, T2F] 8 times, p1
Round 4, 6: p1, [k1, p2, k1] 8 times, p1
Round 5: p1, k1, [p2, "knot"] 7 times, p2, k1, p1
Round 7: p1, [T2F, T2B] 8 times, p1
Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern Chart
If you want to knit without a pattern, only stockinette stitch, your rounds to repeat will be as follows:
Round 1: k1, M1L, k to end of round, M1R
Round 2: k1, k to 1 st before end of round, k1 tbl

3. Sleeves:
In my experience the increases made until the paws level are enough and you should stop increasing when you start the sleeves. 

In order to knit the sweater exactly the way I did and for the same finished size, you repeat above Rounds 1-2 twelve times and after that you knit the sleeves round:
Round 25: k12, k10 using scrap yarn, sl10 to LH needle, k to next m, 34 sts in pattern, k6, k10 using scrap yarn, sl10 to LH needle, k to end of round.

If you are knitting your size and/or pattern and want to understand how to create the sleeves, just follow the steps below:
1) When your dog wears the started sweater place markers at the chest between the paws (sleeve beginning) and on the sides where the paws end (sleeve end).
2) Knit to the sleeve beginning marker, knit the stitches between the sleeve beginning and sleeve end markers with scrap yarn.
3) Slip the stitches knit with scrap yarn to the LH needle and knit them again with your main yarn.
4) Knit to the sleeve end marker of the right paw sleeve and repeat the same you did for the left paw sleeve: knit the sleeve stitches with scrap yarn, after that slip them to the left hand needle and knit them again with the main yarn.
5) Knit to end of round.

After that I usually knit a few rounds of the body and then pick-up the sleeves stitches by removing the scrap yarn and adding 2 stitches on each side of the sleeve to avoid holes. You can see it in detail in the video.

On the body you continue knitting all the stitches except the pattern panel where you continue in pattern.
On the sleeves I knit 8 rounds of stockinette and then 12 rounds of k2, p2 rib, but you can adjust the number of rounds to your size and desire.
After that bind-off the sleeves.

Dog Sweater Knitting Pattern
4. Waist rib:
For the size I knit, begin the waist rib at round 42 and do as follows:
Round 42: [k2, p2tog, p2tog] 3 times, *k2, p2, rep from* to 18 sts before end of round, [k2, p2tog, p2tog] 3 times
After that knit 11 rounds: k2, p2

If you are knitting a different size or a different type of rib, just incorporate some decreases into the first round of waist rib, or if you want to knit plain stockinette, then you can place the decreases similarly to the increases. In this case your decrease round should look something like this: k1, k2tog, k to 2 sts before end of round, ssk.

5. Bottom:
To knit exactly same size as me, knit rounds 54-57 in stockinette. From round 58 start the short rows as follows:
Short Row 1: k to 12 sts before end of round marker, wrap and turn.
Short Row 2: p to 14 sts before marker, wrap and turn.
Short Row 3: k to 2 sts before wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Short Row 4: p to 2 sts before wrapped stitch, wrap and turn.
Repeat short rows 3-4.
Short Row 25: k to end of round (when knitting a wrapped stitch, go with the needle under the wrap and knit the stitch and the wrap together).
In round 59 k to end of round and pick-up the remaining wraps.
Rounds 60-12: k2, p2
After that bind-of loosely or using a stretchy bind-off. In the video I demonstrate 2 different methods of stretchy bind-off.


  1. Looking at this waistband, is this pattern for a girl dog only? Any advice for creating for a boy dog?

    1. Excellent point. I had the same question.

    2. I've not done it with this pattern, but when I make sweaters for my Doxies (who are shaped funny and need modifications besides gender accommodations), I just bind off the belly stitches where I feel comfortable they'll stay out of the way when pup has a wee. I then work the rest of the stitches in rows, accommodating for the missing stitches. It's a touch complicated, but it works, and I haven't seen another method that works for me.

    3. Thank you. Thats what I eventually did. I'm being taught new things against my will, lol

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